Tasty Trips: NORTH CAROLINA MOUNTAIN TOWNS

by Amy C. Balfour & Walker Purvis

One cool thing about the Carolinas in the fall? You can stroll a sandy beach in the morning and admire mountain foliage in the afternoon. All it takes is an easy drive to the leafy Appalachian Mountains, which blaze red, orange, and yellow from mid-October through early November.

The mountains of western North Carolina are home to the Blue Ridge Parkway and Great Smoky Mountains National Park, two of the most popular national recreational areas in the country. Hospitable mountain communities here welcome road trippers and outdoor adventurers with small-town hospitality, inviting lodging, innovative breweries, and destination restaurants that embrace the flavors of Appalachia.

Our favorite mountain towns for food and outdoor fun are Cashiers & Highlands, Bryson City, Boone, Blowing Rock, and Banner Elk.

Cashiers & Highlands

Why Cashiers and Highlands? Escape. Not to mention the gorgeous waterfalls, excellent fly fishing, and cool mountain air.

Separated by a 10-mile stretch of Highway 64 on a remote plateau 90 minutes south of Asheville, these two communities have been exclusive getaways for more than 150 years. Other towns may be closer to the Parkway and Great Smoky Mountains National Park, but Cashiers and Highlands don’t need a boost from any national parks, thank you very much.

Cashiers (pronounced CASH-ers) is anchored by the Village Green, a 13.2-acre community park known for its gardens, sculptures, playground, and trails. Pop into the Cashiers Farmers Market for local produce, fresh baked goods, homemade ice cream, and mountain charm galore. Shopping and a vibrant arts scene are local highlights too. Highlands sits at a cool 4118ft just a few miles from the Georgia state line. It’s a pretty place to escape the heat.

Resorts and golf courses are plentiful, but Mother Nature provides the biggest wows. The Highlands-Cashiers plateau sits in a temperate rainforest, which means waterfalls abound. Hiking trails, climbing routes, and fly fishing spots are found throughout the surrounding Nantahala National Forest and nearby Pisgah National Forest. The lush, untarnished beauty draws nature lovers from Asheville, Atlanta, and beyond.

Hikers should take in the lofty views from Whiteside Mountain, a popular destination famous for its striking 750ft-high granite cliffs. Guides with Highland Excursion use retired military trucks to shuttle guests along trails and backroads. Trips stop at lookouts and waterfalls where the guides share historic and scientific highlights.

And the food? Just as impressive as the scenery. Start your day at Buck’s Coffee Cafe in Cashiers. Serving excellent espresso drinks and coffee as well as gourmet breakfast sandwiches, Buck’s is a local favorite for fueling up before a hike. For dinner, make a reservation at Canyon Kitchen, home to one of the most inviting converted barns around. Tucked at the mouth of a sprawling box canyon, the restaurant serves locally sourced dishes that pay homage to Southern Appalachia.

In Highlands, stop at the Ugly Dog Public House for cheese-loaded tater tots, bacon-and-pimento-slathered burgers, or a reuben stuffed with housecooked corn beef. Regional beers are also served. For a special night out, settle in at Oak Steakhouse at the Skyline Lodge, which opened in 2021. Views of the mountains and the tree-studded plateau are a memorable complement to the prime cuts of Angus beef and the decadent pastries.

Bryson City

Paddlers, Bryson City is for you. The Tuckasegee River flows through downtown while the Nantahala River, known for its Class II and III whitewater, powers through the nearby Nantahala Gorge. Families can soak up the fall foliage during a scenic train ride on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad, which departs Bryson City daily in summer and fall. This compact adventure town sits in the eastern shadows of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

For lunch, take a scenic drive west to River’s End Restaurant at the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). As you chow down on pizza and sandwiches at this breezy cabin, you’ll have close-up views of paddlers on the Nantahala River. The Appalachian Trail rolls through NOC, a 500-acre epicenter for thrilling adventures.

Another popular riverside choice is Pizza by the River, a casual hotspot after a day of tubing.

The Bistro at the Everett Hotel resembles a cozy, old-school hunting lodge that’s cleaned up nice for company. The restaurant embraces regional fare, with mountain trout on the menu as well as beef sourced from Appalachian region farms and ranches. Grab napkins for the High Test, the namesake sandwich at High Test Deli. This pressed Cuban wonder is a delicious stack of meats, cheese, and pickles slathered with spicy mustard.

For a post-adventure burger and brew, settle in at Nantahala Brewing’s Tap Room & Burger + Bar’s new digs inside a former RC Cola bottling plant. The key ingredient in their beer? Water straight from the cold waterways of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Boone, Blowing Rock, and Banner Elk

Perched in the misty upper reaches of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the North Carolina High Country, Boone, Blowing Rock, and Banner Elk welcome roadtrippers in search of Appalachian culture, beautiful mountain scenery, and fantastic hiking.

All three communities are a short distance from the 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway, a favorite of foliage hunters. The Parkway links Shenandoah National Park in Virginia with Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina.

Boone

Home to Appalachian State University, Boone is a vibrant destination that doubles as a regional anchor for bluegrass and old time music. Downtown you’ll find a statue of bluegrass legend Doc Watson, a native of the region, strumming a Gallagher guitar.

Mast General Store is a chain store in the Southern Appalachians known for its eclectic mix of outdoor gear, jams and jellies, and old-time candy. The Original Mast General Store, housed in a 19th-century clapboard building with charmingly creaky floors, is a fun shopping destination in nearby Valle Crucis. Giving a nod to the old days, a cup of coffee here is just 5¢. .

Burgers, sandwiches, and flatbreads are a tasty reward at Booneshine Brewing Company after a day of exploring. Check its Facebook page for current small-batch creations. On Saturdays, smoked barbecue is served in the beer garden.

Banner Elk

Banner Elk may be a one stoplight town with only 1100 full-time residents, but it’s also an outpost for very good food. Visitors have their pick of 14 independently owned restaurants.

One standout is nationally acclaimed Artisanal, a fine dining destination serving a three-course prix-fixe menu from May through October. The locally sourced meals are enjoyed in an upscale converted barn where the cuisine, setting, and service – all top-notch – merge seamlessly for a special occasion dinner. Housed in a distinctive stone building downtown, Stonewalls is a perennial favorite for steaks and seafood.

Wildcat Lake is a 13-acre swimming hole with a sandy beach and seasonal lifeguards. The town is a short drive from Linville Caverns, Elk River Falls, and Grandfather Mountain.

Blowing Rock

Blowing Rock, perched at an elevation of 4000ft, is the only town that sits directly beside the Blue Ridge Parkway. Home to a historic Main Street and a downtown filled with boutiques and craft shops, Blowing Rock is an appealing basecamp for exploring iconic sights on the Parkway. Don’t miss Linville Falls or Grandfather Mountain, where you can test your resolve on the mile-high swinging bridge. The Tweetsie Railroad amusement park is also in town.

Visit Blowing Rock Ale House & Inn for bison burgers, shrimp tacos, or a portobello melt. In the fall, wash it all down with an Octoberfest, a malt-forward beer that celebrates the season.

Other wonderful restaurants in the area include Oak Steakhouse at the Skyline Inn. Owned and operated by Indigo PHOTO BY TODD BUSH Road and situated overlooking the mountains, it’s always an excellent experience. The Ruffed Grouse at the Highlander Mountain House is great for drinks and food and truly feels like a bed in breakfast in the Scottish Highlands. If you’re looking for something more casual, Highlands Burritos in Highlands or Slabtown Pizza in Cashiers are both great options.

Bert Wood