Yeah, That Greenville: Where to Eat, Drink and Pedal in Greenville, SC
Amy C. Balfour
A travel darling for more than a decade, Greenville has earned accolades as a top destination from the likes of Condé Nast Traveler, Travel & Leisure, and Lonely Planet. And rightfully so. Downtown is anchored by Falls Park on the Reedy and its gorgeous centerpiece, Reedy River Falls. An impossibly enchanting Main Street, famed for its restaurants, artworks and Southern hospitality, overlooks the cascades – setting the stage for an invigorating urban adventure.
But Greenville isn’t resting on its laurels. With an expanding greenway, an evolving art scene, thriving breweries and a slew of new hotels, restaurants and community hubs, Greenville still feels undiscovered. The city’s active social media presence makes it all seem irresistibly fun. Search #yeahthatgreenville, and you’ll see what we mean.
Whether a first-time visitor or a return traveler, consider a trip this spring. In early April, Fluor Field begins hosting baseball games for the Greenville Drive, a Boston Red Sox affiliate. Main Street’s popular TD Farmers Market, with more than 70 vendors, kicks off in May. Artisphere, a three-day celebration of regional art, music, and food, starts May 6.
Falls Park on the Reedy and Liberty Bridge
Reedy River Falls is Greenville’s charismatic centerpiece. Instagram-worthy year-round, its image is best captured from the graceful Liberty Bridge, a curved span supported on one side by a single suspension cable and two soaring masts. The adjacent Falls Park, with its gardens, art displays and restored historic buildings, is a beautiful place to explore.
With such an idyllic setting, it can be hard to believe that this stretch of the Reedy River was a booming industrial hub in the 19th and early 20th centuries, lined with grist mills and textile factories. By the mid-1900s, those once-bustling buildings were in decay, and the river was severely polluted. Visionary city leaders and decades of hard work eventually transformed the riverside blight into a vibrant urban gathering spot.
Main Street and Downtown
Just how enchanting is Main Street? Think pedestrian-friendly sidewalks, a lively al fresco dining scene, and whimsical art blooming on nearly every block. White lights twinkle overhead at night. And it’s not just one level of fun. There’s a buzzy dining and drinking scene beneath street level – take note of all the stairwells dropping underground.
Check out the Art Walking Tour on the city’s website for background about Main Street’s public art pieces, which include statues of city luminaries like Joel Poinsett and Vardry McBee, as well as lighthearted works like Annika’s Rush, a bronze rendering of an old Samsonite suitcase packed for travel. Families should keep watch for the nine bronze mice comprising Mice on Main, a kid-friendly scavenger hunt. Pick up clues in the visitor center.
Shops run the gamut. For outdoor apparel and old fashioned candy, wander the wooden floors in Mast General Store, a Main Street shopping stalwart since 2003. Just south, Poppington’s Gourmet Popcorn sells more than 75 different kinds of popcorn. The bloody mary flavor comes with a hint of celery seasoning.
Main Street & Downtown Eats
There's a lot to see and do in Greenville, so fueling up is key – and consistently delicious. Steamed bagels are on the menu at Sully’s Steamers, near the corner of S. Main and E. Washington Streets. The rightly named Nachos Maximus is a hot mess stuffed with turkey, cheddar and Doritos. For a more demure repast, descend to Coffee Underground, a dark and clubby coffee shop at N. Main and E. Coffee Streets. Pastries, quiche and egg dishes are on the menu.
For seasonal, veggie-forward lunch plates with international flair, step up to the counter at Nelo Mayar’s no-fuss Aryana Afghan Cuisine for one of her five homemade meals. Meat options available too. On a weekend visit, walk to the Lazy Goat for lunch. Mediterranean small plates will keep you nibbling for hours on the patio, which overlooks the Reedy River. A longtime favorite known for its pizza and extensive beer selection, Barley’s serves lunch and dinner daily.
It's hard to get more Southern than fried green tomatoes with pimento cheese, which is on the menu at Sassafras Southern Bistro, a Main Street dinner stalwart known for its southern fare. Helmed by Executive Chef Drew Erickson, a four-year veteran of the French Laundry in Napa Valley, the breezily cool CAMP Modern American Eatery serves classic American dishes elevated by international ingredients and influences. We’re looking at you, Wagyu corn dog!
The Arts & the Village of West Greenville
One under-appreciated aspect of Greenville? The arts scene. The city is home to more than 50 museums and galleries, including the acclaimed Greenville County Museum of Art. The permanent holdings include the world’s largest collection of watercolors by Jasper Johns. Another hub for the arts is the Peace Center, which hosts more than 300 plays, concerts, and speakers annually.
The city itself doubles as one big open-air gallery. Thanks goes in part to the Arts in Public Places Initiative, which has blessed Greenville with more than 100 works. These include Dale Chihuly’s Rose Crystal Tower in Falls Park and dozens of murals. An 18,900-square-foot photorealistic mural by Guido Van Helten spotlights local teacher Pearlie Harris and the 50th anniversary of the desegregation of Greenville’s schools.
The city’s epicenter for the arts is the Village of West Greenville. Compact and evolving, this on-trend arts district packs a visceral punch. The Greenville Center for the Arts and other Village galleries host free open houses monthly during the First Fridays Gallery Crawl.
A James Beard semifinalist for Best New Restaurant, Anchorage is a neighborhood icon, from its vegetable-centric small plates to its locally crafted decor to its striking Village Harvest mural, which showcases the Upcountry’s agricultural bounty. Known for its lush collection of potted greenery – which hangs overhead – the Village Grind serves coffee to appreciative crowds.
The Swamp Rabbit Trail: Bikes, Breweries and Bacon Bliss
A fun choice for an active morning? Pedaling north along the Reedy River on the Prisma Health Swamp Rabbit Trail toward Furman University and Travelers Rest. Reedy Rides rents bikes just off Main Street, and Greenville BCycle stations are found across town. Wheels are also for rent at the Commons, a new food hall and community hub on the Swamp Rabbit, one mile north of Falls Park.
Just north, the Orange Line extension veers east to Hampton Station. Inside this former cotton warehouse, Birds Fly South Ale Project serves well-received saisons and sours. Next stop back on the Swamp Rabbit? The Swamp Rabbit Cafe and Grocery. Step inside for pastries, salads and gourmet sandwiches. If you pedal to the city of Travelers Rest, about 10 miles north of downtown, brake for a Bacon Bliss pizza at Sidewall Pizza Company on Main Street. Seven craft beers are on tap at Swamp Rabbit Brewery & Taproom up the road.
For barbecue, drive east from downtown Greenville to Holland Park on Laurens Road. A 4.5-mile trail extension should reach this new commercial hub by the end of the year. Anchor tenant Home Team Barbecue is already drawing crowds with its smoked chicken wings and pulled pork sandwiches. Follow lunch with a craft beer at Double Stamp Brewing and ziplining at Flying Rabbit Adventures. Or maybe ride the zipline first.
The breweries along the Swamp Rabbit are just a sampling of the twenty-one breweries scattered across Greenville, where the craft beer scene is booming. For a full list, visit www.visitgreenvillesc.com.
Where to Stay
Parents of Clemson students are digging the minimalist charms of the AC Hotel, a Marriott property that opened in 2021. In a space once occupied by the Greenville News, the hotel pays homage to its journalistic roots at the Press Room, its intimate speakeasy. Exuberant greenery and elevated views of downtown are the backdrop for craft cocktails at Juniper, the AC’s rooftop bar. And Spanish and Mediterranean tapas earn raves at Paloma.
A courtyard with fire pits and couches links the Residence Inn and Springhill Suites, a welcoming dual property on Washington Street. Wood-framed booths evoke a fun treehouse vibe at Oak & Honey, just off the Springhill Suites lobby. Here, small plates and specialty cocktails embrace the sweet and the smoky with tasty aplomb.